I’m eager to hear everyone’s thoughts on this. I was thinking of a Cohesion3D board would solve some of these issues. I would also love to be able to burn nice grey scale images into wood. (assumably due to the laser having to travel further.) I find that my laser is strong enough to cut with one stroke in the top left…but needs a lot more in the bottom right. It is nigh on impossible to ensure I’m using the same power as I have done before, but a basic Google search shows that the digital controls are not accurate/sensitive enough. I also have a super simple air assist, basic aquarium air pump though so not very strong. I have removed the stock holder thingy and put in a piece of steel with nuts welded to it so I can modify the height manually using its “legs” ( bolts). It has an analogue knob to control the laser power and I use inkscape and K40 whisperer for my designs. Put the metal mounting board back in its original position (don’t screw it down), and use a sharpie to mark on the edge of the mounting panel where the USB cutout on the the frame is.Advice Requested Hello, I’ve been playing around with my basic K40 Laser for a while now. Most likely you’ll need to drill new holes to mount it, but placement is vital. Unscrew the mounting bolts from the board - don’t lose the plastic risers or the nuts/bolts - you’ll need them later. Take the mounting panel and board out, there’s a couple of nuts/bolts - you’ll need to get under the machine a little most likely. During its lifespan we learned that the K40 Laser Power Supply could not provide enough current to power it and that this was causing lots of dropouts and job interruptions. Originally there was the Cohesion3D Mini board. Then they bundled some no name PSU and increased the price by 50. Your board should now be free of any wiring. Cohesion3D's controller used to cost 150. Unclip the multi-coloured one and the power one. It’s a bare ribbon - the connectors are on the board - confusing I know, but the connector doesn’t come with the ribbon. The ribbon cable pulls out of your board - be gentle and with a little side to side tugging it’ll pop right out.
I may skip some steps here, but you’ll get the gist… You’ll be glad to know it’s the easier of the two! You’ll find your wiring confiog around 3/4 of the way down. OK, so firstly I am no expert, but I installed my board yesterday, and I’ll tell you what I think, but double check.
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